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Inspired by the '60s, '70s and '80s, the Spanish brand put out a fall-winter line that included military jackets, pants and dresses with animal prints, checkerboards, lots of buttons, transparent skirts and wide belts. The collection evoked a punk, underground philosophy, said Daniel Perez, the brand's communications director. "These were subcultures that would question gender issues and where women would play a relevant role," he said in a backstage interview. "For example, the collection evokes the attitude of the female cartoonist group behind Wimmen's Comix. They wanted to write from their feminine perspective because, until then, that was an underworld with a very masculine vision." Claudia Torrens ___ ADAM SELMAN COMBINES MOURNING VEILS WITH COWGIRL Selman, a go-to for Rihanna, sees dark times politically, letting models outfitted with rose-topped mourning veils tell that story. But he wants his brand to uplift, including a shout-out in large pink buttons left on his front-row seats that read: "Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood," part of an initiative put together by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Backstage after his show of rose-embroidered tulle, outsize shirt dresses, cowgirl denim and '70s sparkle, Selman explained: "For me, everything has to be joyous, everything has to be uplifting. I wanted it to feel up and triumphant in a way." His girl is seasonless, and she enjoys fun party dresses. She also enjoys gingham, in a pink and black bustier, open-back looks encrusted to catch the light and red silk pajama pants. The head pieces are a collaboration with Gigi Burris Millinery. And the folky roses on denim reflect his love of certain decade.
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